Some thoughts on "Splits"

[Jerry Overstreet]

I often get questions from players who don't understand the "split" function on pedal steel guitars.

I've determined it's confusing because we have made it confusing by calling the split screw or extra rod the split device.

If we consider that additional device as simply a final lower tuner, that takes the mystery out of the equation.

By that I mean, it's only function is to true the final lower note that has been tuned lower than the F#, for example, by the action of tuning the G note activated by the combination of the G# raise and the G# to F# lower.

Using the 6th string lower/raise combination as an example to tune a G note:

When that G split note is actuated, it is tuned by using the normal lower nylon which causes the lower note, when actuated alone, to be flat so that we need a way to tune that lower only note.

If we would call this additional function, whether by extra rod or adjustable screw at the end of the neck, the final lower change instead of a split device I think that might help players understand it's function better.

[Colin Boutilier]

Another consideration is that many of the inexperienced players, like myself, haven't reached a point where we're looking to use a split. I understand how they work now, and why they work, but my playing is not at the point where I'm looking for those extra tuned notes...yet.

[Bobby D. Jones]

If some players get a guitar with every string split screws, Problems arise.
I have worked on a couple guitars, Getting tuning setup proper. On guitars like a Derby with every string split screws. Instead of using the the Nylon tuning nuts to tune lowers. The split stop screws are used to set the stops on common normal lowers like 4-8 to D#-2-C#.
Then the confusion hits, They forgot tuning with the lower stop screws, Then string will not lower to note with the nylon lower nut.
If a string will not lower, Extra lower rods and split screws are first thing to check.

[Ian Rae]

I totally agree with Bobby that the terminology is wrong and we should be calling it "final lower".
Also, my Excel has screws behind every finger, and I've been caught out sometimes with them intruding.
My Williams only has them on the strings that use splits.
Generally, I think the extra rod method stays in tune better, but it adds weight and complication.

[Jerry Overstreet]

If some players get a guitar with every string split screws, Problems arise.
I have worked on a couple guitars, Getting tuning setup proper. On guitars like a Derby with every string split screws. Instead of using the the Nylon tuning nuts to tune lowers. The split stop screws are used to set the stops on common normal lowers like 4-8 to D#-2-C#.
Then the confusion hits, They forgot tuning with the lower stop screws, Then string will not lower to note with the nylon lower nut.
If a string will not lower, Extra lower rods and split screws are first thing to check.

That's my point. Because we refer to them as split screws, players think they are used to tune the splits. It's because someone, somewhere named them split tuners, whether screws or extra rod.

They are NOT. That's how misunderstanding the purpose causes confustion.They are used to tune whatever is going to be your lowest lowered note.

That's how players get their guitar out of adjustment by not understanding the mechanics.

The split change is achieved by activating the lever/pedal and tuning with the normal lower nylon tuner.

Yes, the changer has to have enough travel to achieve it, but there's absolutely no reason why those screws cannot be used as lower stops on every string. Matter of fact, it is the most positive lower stop you can have on a guitar that uses screws at the end of the neck.

That changer finger stops when it hits that screw and cannot go any further. That is the boss of all lower stops.

Education concerning the mechanics is paramount to keep the guitar playing in it's intended stable activation and tuning.

[Jerry Overstreet]

Generally, I think the extra rod method stays in tune better, but it adds weight and complication.

How can that be? The split tuning function is exactly the same with either method.

The only difference is how you tune the lowest note. The solid stop screw has to be more positive than a rod and more components.

Point of correction, the statement concerning the terminology was mine, not Bobby's.

[Joe A. Roberts]

Okay so this has me thinking about string 7 C on C6th, which is almost never lowered (unless you're Paul Franklin)!

So if I am understanding correctly, one could have a lower with the nylon tuner from C-B on string 7, but tighten the "split screw" so the string doesn't actually lower to B, but still have it split when a change is combined with a change that has a raise, like pedal 8, to make the P8 string 7 C# instead be C natural (for fat Curly Chalker minor chords)? This "fake" C-B lower could go on a knee lever somewhere, maybe a vertical, or how about the E9th C pedal for double footing. Then you could also add P4 or P7 for some awesome Amin9th/11th chords, I guess that'd make for a lot of pedals down at once though.

It wouldn't add stiffness to the normal C pedal function when playing E9th cause the string doesn't move unless pedal 8 is being used at the same time right? Maybe I am totally off base

Sorry for the word salad, here is a random generic copedent to show what I am imagining highlighted in yellow, the C-B on the C pedal doesn't actually lower to B because of the split screw, but makes P8 string 7 C natural when double footing P3+P8:

[Jerry Overstreet]

No, you cannot lower the string any further than the screw will allow. The lower finger stops when it contacts the screw at the end of the neck. It cannot possibly move any further.

The intermediate split note has to be tuned with the normal lower nylon while both the lever and pedal actuated.

The only purpose of the screw is to tune the final lowered note.

[Joe A. Roberts]

Whoops I said string 8, I meant 7!
So the final lowest note will be C natural as set by the split screw. When it is raised to C#, the “intermediate note” to be tuned will also be C natural.

When the C pedal is pressed alone, nothing happens om the C6th neck, because the split screw doesn’t let it lower, but when string 7 is raised up to C#, it is then able to be lowered back down to the lowest note of the split screw, C natural?

[Michael Hill]

Even though the split screw does not tune the middle note, I have no issue with the naming. The split screw is still part of tuning a changer involved in a split. Not perfect but not too confusing IMO. It's really only confusing the first time you use it.

[Kelcey ONeil]

The term and function of split tuning was originated by Buddy Emmons in 1964, with the idea of "splitting" the function of two combined changes, thus making transitions between chords smoother and negating the need for another pedal or lever to achieve the same note. According to him, this was a major factor in the advent of the Legrande in 1979, so that he could expand his chord vocabulary without additional undercarriage hardware.

I can imagine that the term split tuning screw was adopted because it enables the split tuning function, and would only necessarily be engaged if you were using split tuning. Regardless of whether you are using the screws or the extra rod method, it still introduces an exception to the normal tuning procedure that must be explained, or mishaps and hijinks are bound to ensue. The same could be said for feel stops and compensators as well. Education cures speculation.

[Lee Baucum]

I've determined it's confusing because we have made it confusing by calling the split screw or extra rod the split device.

If we consider that additional device as simply a final lower tuner, that takes the mystery out of the equation.

If we would call this additional function, whether by extra rod or adjustable screw at the end of the neck, the final lower change instead of a split device I think that might help players understand it's function better.

AGREED!

[Dave Mudgett]

Although split screws have other uses, such as allowing one to stiffen up the standard E9 9th-string D-lower to give a harder feel stop on string 2, their primary function is to permit an in-tune split. It is a clear, simple, unambiguous descriptor. Same with adding additional pulls to achieve splits - the primary function is to achieve an in-tune split.

So I am not only fine with that terminology, I prefer it to anything else I can think of. No matter what it's called, proper use of this hardware requires explaining exactly how it works to someone who is not experienced with it. Telling someone that they are screws to achieve an absolute, final lower stop does not tell them how to use it to achieve an in-tune split either.

Generally, I think the extra rod method stays in tune better, but it adds weight and complication.

I also am not convinced that the 'add extra pull to achieve split' necessarily yields a more stable split-tuned note than a properly implemented split tuning screw. Of course, if the split tuning screw is not tight and wobbles even a little bit, there can be problems. I've added non-permanent loctite to tighten them up occasionally. But I personally have had more issues with added pulls being finicky. For me, a tight, strong split screw is about as stable a note as I can get. I have occasionally used them to stabilize a lower on an older guitar where some of the stops were a bit mushy, without having to tear the whole guitar apart to find the issue.

[Jerry Overstreet]

The purpose for my posting these statements was to help some players understand the system and why they are confused by the term "split screw", that is the row of screws at the end of the neck above the end plate.

I guess it's like the old time Hadacol...They had a call it something.

If a player's use is by the literal term, most of them are going to think it is used to split the combination actuating the simultaneous action of both a raise and an opposite lower of the same string because of the nomenclature.

It's not only ambiguous, it's just an incorrect naming.

I'm just not understanding some people's statements that the use of the extra rod is a more stable tuning of the final lowered note...cause that's all it does..... No way anyone can anyone convince me that all that linkage can provide a more stable lower stop than a screw that stops the finger movement right at the changer.

I realize this is not of some player's interest. That's fine. You don't have to use the system anymore than you have to use your C pedal or your 1st string pulls. Everyone has their reasons for how they configure their guitar.

I just feel that some players here still don't understand how the components of the split tune system work nor how to properly adjust them.

I'm not debating or arguing the merits of my statements but I stand by them.

It is my opinion that there is still a lot of misunderstanding and I'd hate to see anyone perpetuating the confusion through a lack of understanding.

That's how I see it, so carry on. Happy pickin'.

[mtulbert]

Although it an strange term, I view the split screw tuning screw as way to get the notes to be in tune if you are using multiple levers or not.

Take for example the 6th string drop. If you tune that with the B pedal down to get the G note when you engage that lever without the lever the resulting note F# will not be in tune. The split screw allows that note to be in tune as well.

With the B to Bb lever the same holds true as well. The split screw allows the B to Bb lever to be in tune without any pedals engaged.

On some guitars with the Franklin pedal installed, you would need to use additional rods to achieve the above. As mentioned above you could not achieve both with the split screw adusting the B to Bb drop.

Mark T.

[Joe A. Roberts]

Hey Jerry, I found an old post from forum luminary Bengt Erlandsen from 2004 that I think is is describing what I was trying to say earlier in the thread with the screw tightened up...

A big thanks to the one that came up with the idea of adding split tuning screws to the PSG.

There is actually more fun one can do with the split tuning screw. I would call it a hidden split.
Lets say I want to play with only the 8string E-Eb as L.Green does. Instead of backing off the nylon tuner on the 4th string one can tighten the split screw so the 4th string wont lower but still keep the whole tone raise on Cpedal split w 4string E-Eb.

Or if one has a knee lever that raise 1&7 F#-G#. How about installing two extra rods on the Apedal to lower 1&7 to F (!!!!!but tighten the split screw so the F#note stays to F#!!!) when A pedal is pressed. Engage lever that raise 1&7 and you have a G note instead of the G#. It might make the A pedal stiffer but the return response on the pedal will be quicker.
Or want to use the B-Bb on both strings 10 & 5 split with A pedal for a nice minor in A+B position and also only lower the 5th string and not the 10 string when in B6 mode. The split screw on the 10 string comes to rescue.

Bengt Erlandsen

Has anyone actually tried this "hidden split" trick on one of their changes?